People who wear glasses, strive to be environmentally conscious and want to look good, too, have a range of options when it comes to sustainable glasses. 

Some, however, are more sustainable than others. And given that companies will often charge more for a “greener” product, you want to make sure you’re getting what you think you’re paying for.

This post will walk you through some of your options for eco-friendly eyewear, whether that's classic styles, sunglasses for large heads, or any of your eyewear needs. We’ll also give you some factors to consider as you’re shopping. Let’s start with materials.

Eco-Friendly Frames

Frames for glasses are conventionally made from petroleum-based plastics, which are a nightmare, from a sustainability perspective. Plastics are energy-intensive to produce, difficult to recycle and impossible to remove from the environment when they break down into microplastics.

Fortunately, innovative companies around the world are producing frames for glasses and fashionable sunglasses from some pretty neat alternative materials. It’s possible to find frames made from pretty far out things like coffee grounds and flax, but we’ll focus on some more common materials and give you a sense of their pros and cons.

Plant-Based Resins

Plant-based resins, also called bio-resins and vegetal resins, are alternatives to the petroleum-based resins typically found in eyewear. Usually made from castor beans, plant-based resins come from renewable sources and take much less energy to extract and process than petroleum-based resins do.

Plant-based resins are in widespread use by companies with an interest in sustainable practices. This material is durable, flexible and functions much like traditional plastics, so it enables manufacturers to offer the same range of styles and colours as they usually would. 

It’s common for companies to use plant-based resins only as a percentage of the final product and to still use petroleum-based resins for the rest, so if you wanted frames that were 100% free of fossil fuels, this wouldn’t be the option for you.

Bio-Acetate

Acetate is what’s known as a semi-synthetic material. It’s made from cellulose (typically wood pulp or cotton), but then combined with certain chemicals and processed into various forms. It can be spun into fabrics or moulded into accessories like jewelry or frames for glasses.

As a material for eyewear, it has some cool advantages, in that it’s hypoallergenic and easier to fit to people’s faces because its thermoplastic qualities make it bendable when heated. It can be processed into a variety of colours and patterns, although its most famous in its tortoiseshell form.

Alden Wicker at EcoCult does a fantastic deep dive into the environmental benefits and drawbacks of this material. They note that the bio-acetate itself is typically only one ingredient among many in a pair of acetate frames, and that the other ingredients can be pretty toxic. 

As Wicker says, it’s a “chemically intensive” material to make, and the jury’s out on whether it’s actually biodegradable. On the plus side, however, acetate probably did a lot to save the Hawksbill sea turtles from extinction.  

Stainless Steel

Steel is considered an environmentally-friendly material mainly on the basis of its recyclability. It doesn’t lose integrity in the recycling process, so it can be used and re-used countless times without breaking down.

On the down side, steel is very energy-intensive, both in the original extraction process and in the recycling. If you’re the kind of person who’s into slow fashion and likes to have one pair of glasses for years, however, this might be a great option. Steel frames are durable, lightweight and classic enough to ride out the trends.

Bamboo

Bamboo frames are lightweight, strong and probably more versatile than you think. While you won’t get the wide range of colours and patterns that plastics offer, bamboo can be finished in different hues and created in any style.

Bamboo itself is a renewable resource that even has an edge over wood. It can be harvested without killing the plant and regrows so quickly that it’s ready to harvest again in only a few years.

Not every company harvests sustainably, however, so it’s worth investigating where the bamboo comes from and how it was produced. The downside to bamboo, from a sustainability perspective, is that it only grows in some regions of the world, so even though it’s incredibly light, transportation emissions could be huge, depending on where you are.

A Note on Lenses

When you have a choice between plastic and glass lenses, glass would be the way to go, with a few caveats. 

Glass, like plastic, is water-intensive and energy-intensive to produce, although glass can be reused and recycled almost indefinitely. It’s derived from sand instead of fossil fuels, although it should be noted that sand is also a non-renewable resource and sand mining comes with its own set of problems. 

Unlike plastic, glass won’t leach toxic chemicals into the environment as it decomposes and doesn’t build up in aquatic ecosystems and wildlife like plastic does. 

The greenest option here, if you can find it, would be lenses made from recycled glass. They avoid the problems related to new resource extraction and keep useful materials out of the landfill.

Eco-Friendly Practices

Materials are a key part of a product’s green credentials, but the way that product is made has a huge impact on that product’s sustainability, too. 

To really figure out if a company is making their glasses sustainably, however, we need to do some research on that company. Greenwashing (the practice of saying something is environmentally friendly when it’s patently not) is everywhere these days, and it mostly falls on us to figure out if a product is as eco-friendly as its makers claim.

Fortunately, research can be as easy as doing a little digging on a company’s website. Look for companies that pay attention to energy efficiency, water use, emissions and waste management in their manufacturing processes. If a company is doing well in any of these areas, they will probably be shouting it out on their website. 

Always look for specific evidence of sustainable practices (that a production line is powered by 70% renewable energy, for example), rather than general claims (like a line of “green” sunglasses).

Bonus points if the company uses renewable energy to power their plants, creates ethical working conditions for their employees, refuses animal products, works to lower the emissions associated with shipping, recycles their water and uses recycled, compostable or reusable packaging.

We hope this helps you narrow down your choices for eco-friendly eyewear and find a pair that’s as sustainable as they are beautiful.

Written by: Anne Elliot

Feature image: Godisable Jacob; Image 1: Asim Alnamat

Stella McCartney, daughter of the famous Paul McCartney, founded her fashion house in 2001, presenting her first collection in Paris. Now her brand is a world-renowned label not only for its clothes creations, but also for its line of bags, purses and accessories. 

Combining a contemporary luxury look with vegan sustainable materials (as she brings her animal-rights activism into her work), she offers women’s bags for every occasion and style, reflecting modern femininity but always considering functionality, too.

Here are seven of Stella McCartney’s bags that you need in order to update your winter wardrobe and seize the season. We selected the best pieces for winter, according to different styles and occasions. Let’s have a look!

Stella McCartney Frayme Purple Padded Shoulder Bag

This monochromatic purple design channels the sentiment of the season and makes an amazing statement piece meant to be worn with everything, regardless of colour. 

Refinement is fundamental in this Stella McCartney bag design: the decorative tone-on-tone chain completes the pattern of the chain shoulder strap. The closure is magnetic, it has an internal pocket and it includes also tone-on-tone lining and logo pendant as well. 

It’s made of McCartney’s famous Alter Mat, extremely similar to leather but vegan. The size is also prefect, small so you can wear it comfortably on your shoulder, but large enough to fit all your everyday necessities.

The Frayme padded shoulder bag is truly essential to enrich every winter outfit.

Stella McCartney Logo Chocolate-Coloured Padded Tote Bag

An item that you’ll be grateful to have for years to come is Stella McCartney's Logo chocolate padded tote bag. The size of this bag is perfect for the day and the details are astoundingly well-crafted. It really feels like luxury. 

It features an engraved logo on the front, internal pocket with flap and snap button and a top closure with a magnetic button. Thanks to the padding, it maintains its shape well.

But it’s the colour that wins it all. It’s a dark chocolate brown, perfect for the colder months, and unique in its particular tone and temperature. 

Again, the material is the Alter Mat, with a unique soft and resistant leather-like finish. The Logo padded tote bag is one of Stella McCartney’s best bags.

Stella McCartney S-Wave Brick-Coloured Shoulder Bag

The S-Wave is a new design but it has already become a great classic. In this wonderful warm autumnal brick red, this bag is the union of elegance and functionality. The contrasting modern shoulder strap makes it contemporary, with the spelled-out logo printed on technical fabric, while the gold-coloured metal hardware captures the light. 

On the front there’s of course the S logo, a chic element that elevates the whole design. The flap has a snap closure and brings detail to the back of the bag, as well.

With its sophisticated and classy look, it’s perfect for the day but also for a date night and a more formal occasion. The Stella McCartney bag to have for a stylish pop of colour.

Stella McCartney Falabella Light Grey Mini Tote Bag

The Falabella bag brings a more urban and assertive approach to winter accessories. In the mini version, this Stella McCartney design is perfect as an everyday city bag. Practical and powerful, this small tote gives its best in the light grey colour, as it offers a tone-on-tone effect by matching with the silver chain. 

The material is exceptional, a vegan eco-leather that is smooth, resistant and beautiful. The cherry on top is the characteristic Stella McCartney logo on the charm. 

A bold alternative to medium carry-ons, these Stella McCartney bags will become your first choice for accessories. You really need one for winter in the big city.

Stella McCartney Pink Small Hobo Bag

For a sophisticated, classic look, you can opt for the amazing neutral tones and subtle design of the small Hobo bag. It’s a shoulder bag made of eco-leather that features an automatic button closure, adjustable strap and gold-tone and silver-tone chain detailing on the bottom, with Stella McCartney logo pendant on the side. 

Its minimalism is its major strength, and it makes the bag wonderful for work events, happy hour and cocktail party occasions. The pink is a pastel, muted version of the colour, so it can go with any dress or outfit and match a good pair of nude pumps.

The small Hobo bag is the pick for a formal and chic style.

Stella McCartney Logo Cloud Medium Tote Bag

For a bag that can contain literally everything you need while remaining extremely fashionable, you should choose the Stella McCartney Logo medium tote bag. 

This is a very spacious bag with a distinctive design, a stunning double fold that goes up to the handles and the big circled dotted logo at the centre. The design is simple but effective, since it works with the shadows of the material against its monochrome cloud colour. 

It is also flawlessly refined: it includes an open front, three flat pockets on the inside and a removable flap pouch with snap fastening.

The material is the usual McCartney eco-leather, which is also super easy to clean. The Logo medium tote is the bag for a busy day of errands and for trendy mums who are always on the go.

Stella McCartney Sierra Stella Logo Cross-Body Bag

Another winter favourite is this beautiful design. This Stella McCartney bag offers a more urban, younger style with the combination of the adjustable and detachable canvas shoulder strap with lettering-logo print and the sierra squared body. 

The cross-body design is practical and functional, but the different materials used in the design allow for an innovative twist. The Stella McCartney perforated logo on the side brings the style together, so the piece appears elegant and luxurious while maintaining a more casual vibe compared to other design offerings by the brand. 

A warm jumper, flared jeans, boots and the Stella Logo cross-body bag. It’s already a look.

Now you can pick the Stella McCartney bag that best suits your style for this winter.

Written by: contributor

You’re standing in the changeroom and it fits like a glove, and you love the colour and it feels so nice. Time to make that monetary commitment and walk out like a winner with your new garment(s).

That gnawing in your gut says you spent a little too much, but you really like everything about it. Well, by investing some time in the proper cleaning and upkeep of your garments, you can offset your initial expense by reducing your consumption. 

Properly cared for clothes last longer. So do quality pieces. Ask any vintage lover or wardrobe mistress. Longevity is the key to a versatile and varied wardrobe, and the goal of clothing care. 

“A WRAP report said that extending the life of clothing by an extra nine months would reduce carbon, waste and water footprints by around 20-30% each.” —Kelly Green

This post is here to provide you with rock solid care instructions from cotton fibre producers and industry experts to ensure you are laundering and maintaining your clothes in the best possible way. All that will be left for you to do is to read the fabric content labels, follow the corresponding set of directions provided herein, and enjoy your favourite pieces for longer. 

Cotton 

Industry experts at Cottonmill share that cotton fibres have a tendency to shrink when washed and dried. Drying with high heat causes the fibres to squeeze together. “For those that love tight fitting jeans, this shrinking process is actually a bonus,” says Cottonmill. Those of you who prefer some breathing space should opt to hang dry your garments. 

Cold water washing with a mild detergent will boost the colourfastness of cotton fabrics. Handwashing also helps if you’ve got the time and energy.  Tap water temperature will suffice, but be mindful that the warmer the water, the greater loss of dye pigment. Cold water washing will also help prevent shrinkage.

“When handwashing isn’t an option,” Cottonmill advises, “the delicate cycle on your machine is preferred.” Turning your garments inside out for washing and line drying is also recommended to keep them looking their best and to avoid sun bleaching.

These days, most cotton clothing is a blend of cotton with other fibres for stretch and durability, and most of the time cotton garments are preshrunk, allowing them to be tossed into just about any laundry cycle. Still, Cottonmill cautions you to read those fabric care labels! 

Fabric care guru Mary Marlowe Leverette advises that you should wash your cotton garments only every two to three times they’re worn, unless something catastrophic occurs that necessitates an immediate laundering intervention. 

Spills and dirty spots should be pre-treated with a stain remover before washing them, says Marlowe Leverette, letting how fresh the stain is determine how long to let the remover soak in. She advises us to test stain removers on an inside seam when using for the first time on a particular garment to check its colourfastness.

“Underwear, socks, pajamas, bed linens, bath towels, and kitchen towels should be washed in hot water to remove bacteria, body soil, and bodily fluids. This is especially important if someone in the household is ill, very young, very old, or has a weakened immune system,” shares Marlowe Leverette. 

Drying cotton clothes should be done on the permanent press setting or a lower dryer temperature setting, with the exceptions being Marlowe Leverette’s above list of intimate use items, which should be dried on the high setting, again for hygienic reasons.

Remove clothes from the dryer before they are bone dry to minimize the need for ironing. Hang up to allow for the remaining moisture to evaporate. 

When ironing, use a medium hot setting and press your garments the wrong side out. A pressing cloth between the iron and the garment will prevent scorching of the fabric. “You can also use a clothes steamer or hang cotton clothes in a steamy bathroom to help remove wrinkling. This will not give you a crisp finish but will remove big wrinkles,” writes Marlowe Leverette.

For long term storage, throw in some cedar balls or cedar oil soaked sachets to keep silverfish, firebrats, carpet beetles and their larvae from devouring your cotton clothes. Keep your stowed away cottons in a cool, dry, dark place where the temperature and humidity levels are fairly constant, and use fabric storage containers to allow the contents to breathe.  

Marlowe Leverette suggests that we “[a]void using undiluted chlorine bleach which can weaken fibers and cause holes in cotton fabric.” She states that a dilute solution is safer for stain removal and whitening, but that even this will weaken cotton fabric if used habitually. Her preference is an oxygen-based bleach. It takes longer to work than chlorine bleach, however, and necessitates at least a 60 minute soak for optimal results. 

Fabric softeners are not essential to the care of cotton clothes, but Marlowe Leverette says to use them if so desired. 

Denim

Cotton denim has a few peculiarities to its care. The standard approach, to wash inside out and in cold water (good for the planet and your bank account balance) with a mild detergent, applies, but did you know that you should launder your jeans only “once every 10 wears at most to maintain fit”? This is the advice from the pros at Levi Strauss, and most garment experts agree. 

“You can save over 2,000 litres of water per year by washing [your jeans] once a month as opposed to once a week (and spend less time in the laundry).” —Outland Denim

When you do wash them, make sure to button up all buttons and zip up all zippers before turning them inside out, advise the experts at Outland Denim and Eco Age. You can hand wash your jeans in lukewarm water, they say, but this requires a 45 minute soak, three rinses in clear water, and, I would add, great hand strength. 

To spot clean your jeans, use a damp cloth or a scrubbing brush with a mild soap. Outland Denim and Eco Age note that the exception is raw or no finish denim, as spot cleaning could cause “whites spots” where the pigment has been removed by the scrubbing. 

Infrequent laundering will preserve the fabric, but can lead to smelly jeans. Outland Denim and Eco Age offer this pro tip: pop your “not visibly dirty” jeans in the freezer overnight to neutralize the clinging microorganisms who are busy manufacturing those telltale odours. 

Levis shares that line drying is the way to go to avoid the breakdown of denim fibres. They explain that lint is just that — bits of fabric fibre that have been worn off the jeans by the heat and tumbling action of the dryer. Hang-drying in a shady spot maintains the original size and fit of the garment and may prevent any fading and/or warping of the fabric.  

To keep your jeans in good repair, Outland Denim and Eco Age’s experts tell us to never pull them up by the belt loops. They suggest we “pull up via the waistband, which is much stronger,” to avoid tearing out said loops. And they offer two final suggestions for care: to avoid ironing denim and to hang jeans on a wooden hanger to store them in your closet. 

Now go tend to your cottons so they will serve you well for years to come.  

By Jane Thornton

Bamboo Botanicals shares this list of fast fun facts about this promising plant: 

1. Some species of bamboo can grow over 3' in height in just 24 hours, an unmatched growth rate in the plant world. Full maturity is reached at between 1-5 years depending again on the species, making it “the only woody plant that can keep up with the rate of human consumption and deforestation.”

2. Its versatility is rather astounding: its textile can be made into shoe insoles, bed sheets, linens, socks, T-shirts, underwear, etc. Its woody fibres are used to fashion everything from hardwood flooring to bike frames. 

3. Even deodorant can be made from its charcoal form. Porous bamboo charcoal “can absorb large quantities of odor causing bacteria,” making it a natural deodorant and eco-friendly filter for removing chemicals from water. 

4. With a tensile strength of 28,000 PSI (compared to steel’s mere 24,000 PSI), bamboo has been a global go-to building material for millennia. 

5. You can even eat the stuff. Bamboo shoots offer much to the diner: they are low in calories and fat, high in fibre and potassium, and can be added to many dishes, especially Asian cuisine where they “have been a staple food source for thousands of years.” (Okay, but why are pandas so portly then?) 

Beneficial Crop 

Bamboo is a self-renewing plant that grows in a wide range of climate zones and types of soil. This means harvesting bamboo does not necessitate replanting for the next season. Thanks to bamboo’s rhizome root system, it retains its growing structure year after year, harvest after harvest, as new shoots sprout up, taking over from the old stalks. The leaves dropped by the plant feed the soil, so bamboo can be grown without artificial fertilizers.  

Bamboo Kun is a natural anti-bacterial bio-agent which eliminates and prevents over 70% of bacteria that attempt to grow on the plant. This makes bamboo pest resistant, so it can also be grown without pesticides.

This insidious root system also traps the soil, preventing erosion that would otherwise clog water arteries and choke out marine life.  

Fibre Features

Dr. Subrata Das of Fibre2Fashion extolls the virtues of bamboo fibre. He praises the fibre for its ability to “absorb and evaporate human sweat.” Active people value these qualities because it means the fabric does not stick to the body when wet, allowing greater ventilation during exercise. 

Bamboo is also known for the thermoregulation properties afforded by the fibre’s insulating characteristic: higher body temperatures can cool down when in hot environments; body heat is retained when it's cold outside. 

More good news: entomologist Michael F. Potter of the University of Kentucky reports that clothing moths do not like bamboo fabric. It really doesn’t have anything to do with bamboo kun, but rather the moths’ preference for animal fibres. This puts bamboo on equal footing with hemp and cotton in terms of wardrobe pest control. (Sorry reclaimed wool.) Just don’t put away clothing that is heavily soiled with fauna matter. (Eeeeewwww – like you would.) 

Drawbacks of Processing

Bamboo fibres are popularly turned into the semi-synthetic fabrics rayon or viscose. Rayon was first commercially produced in 1891, with “artificial silk,” or viscose, following closely on its heels just three years later. While the terms rayon and viscose are used interchangeably, they refer to differences in the processing methods used in each fabric’s production.  

Researchers Afrin, Tsuzuki and Wang report that to render bamboo fibres into a useable state for fabric manufacturing takes processing, and it is this treatment that begins to strip away bamboo’s natural and green virtues. Much of bamboo fibre’s natural characteristics, such as UV absorption and anti-bacterial properties, are removed by its processing. 

This can belie claims of eco-friendliness made by clothing manufacturers. Lopamudra Nayak explains:

“Products made from bamboo are often labeled as ‘eco-friendly’, ‘bio-degradable’ and ‘anti-microbial’ irrespective of their method of manufacturing. The claims may not always portray the products authenticity and true environmental impact. By far, viscose process is predominantly used to create fibers from bamboo but the properties of natural bamboo fibers in such bamboo viscose products have been lost.” 

Both rayon and viscose require a lot of energy and a number of chemical solvents to produce. Lyocell, a kind of rayon developed in the 1970s, requires less in the way of chemical processes, in addition to using less water in its manufacture.

From Underwear Out, It's Time to Shop

The growing sustainable movement in the bamboo-derived fabrics industry is undoubtedly driven by a growing consumer understanding of the negative environmental impact incurred with rayon/ viscose production. Now we see a marked uptick in the manufacture of more eco-friendly Lyocell fabrics and products. 

Bamboo is far more eco-friendly than cotton, even the organic variety, so do choose it every time and look for Lyocell in the fabric contents label to avoid undoing the positive environmental impact of your choice.

From bottom to top, from underwear out, you can swath your frame in a vast array of bamboo textiles: lingerie and intimate apparel, athletic wear, hosiery, casual jersey outfits, silky formal pieces, and even durable footwear. 

Check out this list from Ecotero to ensure you are buying from ethical, sustainable, and green producers. Household Wonders also offers these 25 bamboo clothing and product companies. 

To recap briefly, bamboo clothing does have a lot going for it. It is a planet-friendly choice. It is supremely pleasing to the touch and comfortable to wear. Its superior breathability will serve you well on the tennis court or at a cocktail party. 

Happy green shopping, Fashionistas, and don’t forget to read and interpret those labels. Hint: Lyocell is the way to go.

By Jane Thornton

Feature image: Marcelo Chagas; Image 1: Michael Burrows

Colour is the very first factor consumers assess when shopping for clothes. Not fibre content, not fabric feel, but colour. Do I like this colour? Will it look good on me? Failing to select the shades and hues that most flatter us is a highly visible fashion mistake and speaks to our overall ability to function successfully in this somewhat superficial world. We are aware of a colour’s impact on ourselves, but what about its impact on others?

Colourful History

Humankind has been colouring fabric since 3500 BCE. Natural dye sources such as plants and shells produced tints and shades that lacked vibrancy and faded easily.

It wasn’t until 1856 that colourfast dyes were created quite by accident when teenaged chemist William Perkin discovered a new purple dye while attempting to manufacture quinine. His mauveine launched the synthetic dye industry because the new colourants could be made cheaply from coal tar. When Empress Eugénie and Queen Victoria wore mauveine dresses, they began a purple craze among well-dressed ladies from Scandinavia to North America.

Colour forecasting thus began by the late 1800s. French textile mills first issued colour cards for the industries that supplied the ready-to-wear market, milliners, and shoe factories. These dye charts were invaluable tools to ensure consistent colour across all manufacturers’ end products that season, from gloves to shoes to hats. Consumers could ask for and get ensemble pieces from different retailers in a guaranteed hue.

Accurately predicting trends well before they materialize is colour forecasting’s biggest concern because of the requisite lead time for dye makers to access source materials and secure suppliers. Cutting edge palettes have been determined years before eager fashionistas see them on the racks.

The Devil Wears Prada offers this delicious rant by Meryl Streep’s villainous lead, discussing the complex process of determining the colour of the season: 

“…in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent, wasn’t it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic 'casual corner' where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs...” (The Devil Wears Prada).

And so it goes today. Fashion influencers follow the industry’s capricious lead.

Colour At What Cost?

Any fabric made today must be colourfast if it is to be a commercial success.

Textile dyeing, however, has at least 72 toxic substances associated solely with its processes, according to the World Bank: chemicals; heavy metals that can increase cancer risks, serious illnesses, and skin ailments; toxins that alarmingly increase in deadliness as they enter our food chain.

When this chemical-laden water is used to irrigate crops, as it is in many parts of the world where people farm in proximity to textile manufacturing plants, textile dye toxins are present in vegetables and fruit harvested from these fields.

These poisonous materials can turn rivers black and red and block the sunlight from penetrating, thus preventing life-giving photosynthesis. This interference with oxygen transfer thwarts the river’s self-purification process, as well as harms marine life.

“Fashion is responsible for up to one-fifth of industrial water pollution, thanks in part to weak regulation and enforcement in producer countries like Bangladesh, where wastewater is commonly dumped directly into rivers and streams. The discharge is often a cocktail of carcinogenic chemicals, dyes, salts and heavy metals that not only hurt the environment, but pollute essential drinking water sources.”—Helen Regan

Not so fun fact: the fashion industry annually consumes around 93 billion cubic meters (21 trillion gallons) of water. It’s an amount equivalent to 37 million Olympic swimming pools, says Helen Regan of CNN Style.

Fabric dyeing and finishing are the most polluting and energy-intensive processes of garment manufacturing. Chemicals or treatments are applied to fabric to achieve the desired finish and include bleaching, softening or adding water resistant or anti-wrinkle qualities.

What's Being Done

According to Regan, the European Union, China, Japan, India and Vietnam have all banned the use and import of azo dyes which can release aromatic amines, a chemical compound linked to increased risk of cancer.

And China means business. NPR’s Rob Schmitz says that in 2017, a “pollution crackdown” left whole industries reeling as environmental inspectors ventured into factories across the country, charging officials “in more than 80,000 factories with criminal offenses” and temporarily shutting down about “40 percent of China’s factories,” according to his sources.

Schmitz argues that this crackdown was more than a flash in the pan—that it represents a real movement on the part of the Chinese government to address its environmental issues, in which the textile industry plays no small part.

We might also look to technological developments to help make the practice of dyeing clothes less toxic to humans and ecosystems. Airflow dyeing, for example, is an application process that uses atomized dyeing liquor in a high-pressure spray to transfer colour onto textiles using very little water and energy.

Textile scholars Iqbal Mahmud and Shantanu Kaiser argue, however, that “waterless dyeing technology has been around for over twenty years, and it still has not been accepted by the textile industry.” The switch over would eschew traditional culture-defining ways and necessitate a large initial investment for the machine installation, so without external pressure, the industry is reluctant to change.

What We Can Do

The first thing we might do is get informed about what’s in our wardrobes. According to Michael Braungart and William McDonough, on average, “only 5% of the raw materials involved in the process of making and delivering” a product is contained within the product. Fashion writer Beth Ranson explains that it “is therefore important that we also pay attention to the 95% of the material process that we do not see; a vast component of which is hidden water.”

Reducing the volume of our consumption and stringently checking for Fair Trade labels are two immediate ways everyday people can make a difference. Buying from planet-friendly clothing brands is another.

But beware. At a recent Australian Open, the ball retrievers purportedly wore “sustainable” clothes made of recycled plastic bottles and manufactured in Tiruppur, India. A closer look at the supply chain, “recycled yarn…imported from Taiwan, knitted and dyed in Surat and finally tailored in Tiruppur,” disqualifies these garments from sustainable status, as Neeta Deshpande tells The Wire. The first step in this chain, however, is a good one.

Shop local manufacturers whenever possible to keep the environmental impact of your consumption lower. That’s the ultimate goal.  

By Jane Thornton

Feature image: Joseph Liu; Image 1: Mike van Schoonderwalt

Geography affects closet contents. So does income. And budget. And personal taste. And, increasingly, the sustainable mindset.

Selecting additions to our wardrobes that don’t literally cost the Earth requires a bit of sleuthing, but this task is becoming easier and easier with each passing fashion season as garment manufacturers wake up to the fact that the average consumer cares about sustainability. Indeed, they care so much that they are closing their wallets to clothing produced in the toxic traditional ways.

Now how does one achieve a guilt-free wardrobe? Not in one fell swoop…unless your credit card is matte black. No, this process of consumption reduction and replacement has to happen over time as pieces disappear from your dressers and closets through attrition. You outgrow them, you donate them, you consign them or regift them to members of your posse. You most assuredly do not pitch them into a landfill.

Homework First…

Perhaps the most onerous task in building a sustainable wardrobe will be determining what pieces you truly need. Be honest—nobody has to have 24 scarves or a dozen black dress shirts. (Well, maybe well-accessorized assassins.) A periodic culling of your closet’s contents will reveal your true go-to pieces, the workhorses of your clothing stable. 

Okay, the time has come when you must replace those favourite items. Hmmm. Where to begin? Labels. Always look for the certification labels and investigate those that remain a mystery to you. Keep this handy list on your phone and check for updates a couple of times a year.

…Then Shopping!

Let’s start on the inside and work our way out. And no, a little black dress is not an essential despite what fashion marketing tells us. Repair it or pass it on. You merely want a newer version of the cocktail crowd uniform. For now, we are all about your daily body coverage needs.

The Bare Essentials

Intimates simply must feel good to the touch as they maintain contact our most delicate skin throughout the day. Thankfully, modern textile producers have devised eco-friendly fabrics that are soft and breathable, and lingerie designers are snapping up their supply. Sustainable panties and briefs are readily available in abundance, so limit yourself to a two week supply max.

Bras are such onerous foundation essentials to fit that it really is understandable if you go off the path of self-restraint and buy two of a version you like/can stand.

Hosiery is a marvellous and simple opportunity to express your true character. Quirky socks and funky tights are an easy way to personalize an outfit.

The Workhorses

T-shirts are the backbone of so many ensembles. Remember when Sharon Stone wore a black one on the Oscar red carpet with a full floor length skirt after her planned outfits (two) failed to arrive in wearable condition? She was clocked by many fashion reviewers and T-shirt sales soared as women realized their versatility.

Absolutely everybody needs bottoms: dress and casual pants, skirts of various lengths for various occasions, leggings because we will not give up their incredible comfort and versatility and the ubiquitous pair of jeans.  

For those favouring a feminine silhouette, a frock fills the bill. Dresses can be for work or play or formal occasions. The best ones withstand the test of time, cut along classic lines that flatter and fit well. Look for natural fibre content in all instances.

The Layers

Oooo – a cozy sweater. Just wearing one makes you feel cossetted and cared for. Nowadays there are numerous sweater producers using reclaimed wool to make their knitted creations.

Businesswomen, you just have to hunt a very little bit to find sustainable office wear. An ethically made blazer over dress pants or a skirt or even a dress keeps you looking professional and can be found during your lunch break with just a click or two.

There’s nothing like a denim jacket to top your street wear look. Look for organic hemp or cotton versions or even those made of reclaimed denim. This is a piece you will reach for regularly, so do not be shy about making the investment. 

Lust for a leather coat, but can’t reconcile your hunger with your cruelty-free practices? Fret no more – more and more reclaimed leather garments are hitting the store racks as the world reduces its meat consumption.   

Fend off winter’s icy blasts with a sustainable winter coat. Puffy and practical, woollen classic cut or high tech mountaineer’s dream, ethical cold weather gear is here.

The Masculine Staples, for Gents of Any Gender

People who identify as gents, your dressing needs have not been overlooked by the industry, not by a long shot.

It is understood that men’s clothing costs more and its buyers tend not to question this for a variety of reasons: impatience with the task at hand, higher level of disposable income, and the prestige of wearing a big name. Score extra points with a vintage necktie.

Top off your office casual look, fellas, with a blazer to keep things appropriately smart. Special occasion coming up? A suit and dress shirt are definitely de rigueur, especially those with a very low environmental impact.

Of course, men need casual everyday wear and pieces made of hemp will prove to be the best investment because of the fibre’s durability, softness, and sustainability.

Hemp trumps organic cotton, but any organic fibre source is better than conventionally grown crops. Do not let best be the enemy of better. Any improvement is a step in the right direction.

Power to the People

First-world shoppers have the power to steer the fashion industry in the direction necessary for human survival. All human survival.

Simply say no to fast fashion. Limit your consumption. Challenge the practices of industry giants by contacting them directly with your concerns. Be vocal on your social media platforms. Purchase only certified fair trade and sustainable garments.

Your practices become habits and provide a model of behaviour for those watching. You can get what you want from manufacturers and retailers by being unyielding with your clothing demands/choices. You will be literally solving the problem of toxic fashion by throwing your money at its greener future. It’s more commonly referred to as shopping.

Shopping Resources:

https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/sustainable-organic-underwear-ethical-bras

https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/sustainable-lingerie

https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-fashion/eco-friendly-t-shirts/

https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-leggings/

https://www.citrussleep.com/lifestyle/14-best-organic-natural-and-eco-friendly-jeans-and-pants

https://www.vogue.com/article/best-sustainable-denim-brands

https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/25-affordable-ethical-dresses-for-the-minimalist

https://www.consciouslifeandstyle.com/11-ethical-sustainable-sweaters/

https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/sustainable-womens-blazers

https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-denim-jackets/

https://sustainableoutfits.com/10-sustainable-leather-jackets-perfect-for-fall/

https://altitude-blog.com/en/ethically-made-sustainable-winter-jackets/

https://www.eco-stylist.com/ethical-clothing/men/suits-and-blazers/blazers/

https://dudefluencer.com/ethical-mens-suits/

https://goodonyou.eco/7-ethical-shirts-men/

https://www.eco-stylist.com/ethical-fashion-certifications-you-need-to-know/

By Jane Thornton

Feature image: Manga Verde; Image 1: Terje Sollie

Fair trade. Ethically sourced. What leaps to mind when you read these terms on a clothing label or fashion retailer’s website? Do you envision a raw-materials-to-end-user chain completely devoid of exploitation that allows us to fill our clothing hangers and dresser drawers with a clean conscience? Gosh, that would be nice. Clothes shopping then becomes an act of benevolence to all humankind. Yes, this is a worthy ideal to pursue.

But how?

Perhaps the easiest first step for the budding ethical shopper is to spend your fashion budget with second-hand clothing vendors.

The Ethical Consumer website also offers a list of 10 easy wardrobe-stocking practices that have a big impact. Some are further reaching and more financially-based: shop with co-operatives to support democratic business models, challenge corporate power through organized actions and personal practices and choose an ethical institution for your financial service provider.

Another simple action is to read the labels of all potential brand new garment purchases.

Know Your Labels

Check this short list of the most popular certifications to find out the focus of each one:

B Corp—Just remember that the “B” stands for beneficial. This mark denotes a business whose practices benefit society as a whole, though individual brands may emphasize different practices to get there.

Better Cotton Standard—Identifies companies that want to move towards using more ethical cotton sourcing but are not fully organic or GMO- and pesticide-free.

Bluesign—Identifies textile mills focused on minimizing their toxicity through the use of processes and materials that reduce environmental impact.

Climate Beneficial—Identifies wool sources that help sequester excess carbon and minimize negative outcomes from farming.

Cradle to Cradle—Identifies brands concerned with the end-of-life impact of their product and ethical material sourcing on the front end.

Fair Trade USA—Identifies brands that focus on garment labourers' rights in their supply chain.

Fair Wear (company mark) —An independent, non-profit organization whose members work towards implementation of the FWF Code of Labour Practices and have all their factories third party scrutinized.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)—Aids in the verification of textiles made using organic materials and/or producers who implement organic practices in the creation of their textiles. Upholds the labour standards set forth by the International Labour Organization.

Leather Working Group—Identifies brands that source leather from environmentally responsible suppliers.

Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft—A non-profit focused on artisan work handmade in home or workshop settings under fair and ethical conditions.

STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX—Certifies that textiles are free of substances harmful to humans and keep toxic dyes and chemicals out of their textile processing and final products.

Regenerative Organic Certification—Identifies brands that are working with fibre farmers aiming to draw a maximum amount of carbon out of the atmosphere, as well as promote soil health, animal welfare and social fairness.

USDA Organic—Certifies agricultural products like cotton or cashmere that are produced free of synthetic pesticides, fertilizers or GMOs, but doesn't necessarily cover dyes, finishes or other treatments. The USDA allows GOTS-certified textiles to be sold in the United States as organic.

WFTO Fair Trade Organization Mark (company mark)—Another fair trade labelling organization; this label doesn’t guarantee a certified product, but denotes that a company is making efforts to improve working conditions in its supply chain.

Consider Fabric Content

Look also at the source fibre of each garment. Even 100% organic cotton is fraught with ethical issues, from seed to material manufacturing to garment fabrication. Cotton is a very thirsty crop to grow and process, and its global labour force, usually made up of people in poorer, less developed countries, is highly susceptible to exploitative employer practices. Add to this, the World Health Organisation (WHO) estimates that 20,000 deaths occur annually in developing nations from pesticide poisoning, of which many can be attributed to the traditionally grown cotton industry.

Flax linen is better, bamboo fabric places higher yet, and hemp reigns supreme as the world’s most sustainable and versatile textile crop.

Big names are joining the sustainable fabric movement. Levi’s has a hemp jean now, a return to founder Levi Strauss’ original fabric of choice for his workman’s pant for the 1850s gold rush miners.

Ask About Workers’ Rights

A growing number of fashion retailers are actively pursuing the issue of human rights through purchasing choices and policies which aim to maintain fair standards, but this cannot guarantee ethical practices because of the complexity of supply chains. Companies are still frequently sourcing from factories where workers are treated unfairly and/or employee health and safety is put at risk.

It is up to the end user to ask questions about sourcing to avoid purchasing sweat shop products and buy fairly traded clothing instead. By doing so, you help ensure that early supply chain producers and workers, usually in developing countries, receive a fair piece of the pie for their labour and that labour is performed under decent working conditions. Fair trade’s ultimate goal is a higher standard of living for all through the reduction of poverty and the promotion of sustainability.

Look for Eco-Collaborations

Perhaps it isn’t surprising that fashion conglomerates are finding their guiding lights in the initiatives of smaller garment industry start-ups. The very nature of a start-up is to address a recognized shortfall in the supply for a very specific and new popular demand. Small fashion businesses must be particularly responsive to consumer requests and the #shoplocal movement has empowered artisans and entrepreneurs to pursue their ideal product dreams, bringing them to a more and more receptive market that seeks planet-friendly solutions.

“As the solutions to a lot of sustainable issues are technology and algorithm-based there are also growing numbers of examples of niche start-ups filling very specific gaps in the armoury of larger companies” Glynn Davis, Retail Insider.

Enter eco-collaborations. Fashion has often been, as Davis says, “held up as the worst face of consumer culture,” and with good reason. Industry behemoths lumber along in their well-established paths, finding it difficult and expensive to risk a lane change on such a large scale. Davis explains, however, that nowadays, savvy corporations like Adidas are collaborating with little innovative fashion manufacturers who are more adroit to market trends to learn the newest green techniques and best ethical practices.

Where to Shop

City-dwelling fashionistas have a better selection of ethical clothing outlets, but retailers in smaller urban centres are stocking eco-responsible and fair trade options as consumer awareness and ensuing demand grow. Some popular brands with their focus on ethical, fair trade production include Patagonia, the outdoor gear company; Eileen Fisher, best known for her organic linen women’s clothing; and tentree, the Vancouver, Canada manufacturer of cozy, casual essentials.

Ask questions when browsing the racks. The staff is there to share their product knowledge with you and help you make the best choice possible. If they don’t have the answers, your phone is your next best source for referencing label definitions and planet-friendly brands. There’s always an answer.

By Jane Thornton

Feature image: cottonbro; Image 1: Anna Tarazevich